Stealth Wealth Steps in Fast Fashion
BY JOANNE SASVARI For CanWest News Service
Stealth Wealth Steps in Fast Fashion, with a load of bling, takes a back seat to class and luxury. Remember the concept of "investment dressing"? Yeah, we have hardly any memory of it either.
For what seems like forever, fashion has been all about instant trends and disposable clothing that's out of style an hour after you buy it. But this fall, so-called "fast fashion" is beginning to look a little, well, unfashionable.
"I think the whole idea of fast fashion, we're getting tired of it," says Barbara Atkin, fashion director for Holt Renfrew. "People are looking for quality."
Although the Holt Renfrew customer is a luxury customer, the trends Atkin highlights inevitably trickle down to retailers at every price point. So whether we shop at designer boutiques or Winners, these are the trends we will be following this fall.
Or maybe "trend" isn't the right word. Although there will always be trends in fashion, she says, right now "there's more of a direction than a trend." Rather than starting something new, fashion this fall is further defining the change in silhouette, colour and mood that began a couple of seasons ago. It's a direction that will continue for some time, which means you'll be able to wear many of fall's key pieces for several seasons to come.
"This speaks to the slowing down of fashion. It's a new minimalism, and this speaks of stealth wealth," Atkin says.
"Stealth wealth" is her way of describing a new attitude to luxury. It means no flash, no bling, no logos, no ostentatious displays. Instead, it's all about luscious fabrics and exquisite tailoring as interpreted by expensive but relatively unknown labels such as Akris, Malo and Loro Piano.
"These are not clothes that arrive before you do," Atkin says. "It's all about beautiful cuts of fabric, and clothing that's built from the inside out."
This is an enormous change from just a couple of years ago, when we were embellishing with ruffles and sparkly beads, and before that, when we were revealing our bodies in tight, skimpy clothing. "I think that we were, as women especially, so overexposed sexually for so long that it became a time to cover up," Atkin explains.
Besides, she adds, "The world has also changed so much and designers needed to get more serious." After all, the war in Iraq is now in its fifth year, terrorism is an omnipresent threat, global warming is becoming a reality and economic instability a real possibility. These are serious times and, as always, fashion reflects the times we live in.
One of the most serious issues, of course, is the environment, and as Atkin points out, "Fast fashion just adds to disposable clothing." Increasingly, Holt's is looking at clothing that is sustainably produced and, she says, "If we can enjoy our clothes a little longer, that helps.
"It's not about hemp and it's not (about being) biodegradable, but it speaks to a different consciousness," she adds. "That's going to be an important and strong message as we go forward. It's not frivolous." Moreover, designers aren't just taking the world more seriously, but also their craft.
"I think women love their clothes to do something for their bodies, and now men are getting into that," says Alon Freeman, Holt's market editor for menswear, referring especially to fall's slim menswear suits by Dior and Prada.
So, fall is serious, minimalist and androgynous - but what are we actually going to wear? Atkin has identified three key themes for the season: the New Minimalist, the English Eccentric and the Romantic Warrior.
Minimalism circa 2007 means "a real paring down of silhouette" as defined on the runway by Jil Sander's sharp, mantailored grey flannel suit as well as designs by Marni, Prada and Marc Jacobs.
The English Eccentric is the flip side of that look. It still depends on Savile Row-quality tailoring, but mixes colours, patterns and proportion in wonderfully quirky ways. Balenciaga's oddball school boys/girls were a great example of this, as were designs by Michale Kors, Jean Paul Gaultier and Etro.
As for the Romantic Warrior, she will pair something rugged and utilitarian, such as the techno-parka everyone loved at Burberry Prorsum, with a delicate fabric such as chiffon. For evening, the look morphs into what Atkin calls the Dark Angel - body-conscious clothing like the frocks at Nina Ricci, made feminine with feathers, beads or fur, then grounded with a heavy shoe or boot.
But whatever the look, you will want to go for a silhouette that is either long and lean or big and voluminous. Especially important were the full pants at Michael Kors or Max Mara and swingy coats like the ones at Bottega Veneta.
Colour is either dark - black, midnight blue or layers of grey - or saturated and eye-popping like the purple at Lanvin and vivid green at Christian Dior.
Knits are important whether in sweaters, dresses or hoodies. So are tunics and a new legging that is sturdy and fitted with trouser details.
A bit of gloss is essential, especially in a patent shoe, a shiny bag or a metallic finish to fabric. Accessories are kept to a minimum, but should have big impact.
And above all, clothes that are "multiple end use" are key - they should not only be able to make the transition from day to evening, but should be seasonless and easy to pack.
Just ask Atkin, who spends most of her time on the road travelling to the world's major fashion collections. But overall, she loves this new season, a time of "beautiful quality and modern classics" that won't be dated by January. In fact, she says, "I think fall is probably one of the best seasons I've seen in a long time."
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